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a day from delhi found us in Jaipur. The capital of the state of Rajasthan (Land of the Kings), the land of deserts camels and maharajas typically associated with the romance of India. Most cities in the state correspond with what were once different kingdoms and royal lineages, with varying versions of their collective history offered from each region. Most were Rajputs, a characteristically noble Hindu warrior caste. When possibly facing defeat, the Rajputs would commit ?, which consisted of rushing out to be slaughtered while all the women threw their children and themselves into burning pyres. Fiercely independent, the British exploited historic rivalries, playing the kingdoms off of each other before offering "protection" treaties that incorporated them into the Raj, yet maintained their status as Maharaj with hefty allowances. This led to a shift from noble warriors to international playboys. At Independence, India maintained their large allowances to earn their support in the new nation, until Indira Gandhi cut them off in the 1970s. Their families now rent out their palaces and estates to make ends meet. If the British learned from this lesson and cut off their royal leeches, perhaps we could all spend a night in Buckingham Palace.

The greatest maharaj of Jaipur reigned in the 19th century, and was heavily interested in Astronomy, Astrology, and related mathmatica. The entire city was constructed according to the Hindu model of the cosmology, a (oversimplification) three by three grid with the palace in the center (corresponding to Mt. Meru, where the gods lived) This makes for very wide straight streets and clearly delineated addresses.

We only visited Jaipur this trip, a major tourist destination probably second to the Taj in Agra, but perhaps first in 'annoyances.' It has been my experience that the less exposure to western tourists a city/region has experienced, the less bullshit there is to endure. From predatory rickshaw drivers, relentless touts, and avarice inspired "gem exporters," it is not the right place to form an impression of India. Unfortunately this is usually the case for many tourists on short-term visits. In the single year that passed since todd was last here, the increase in cellular phones and atms was remarkable. Jaipur is called the "Pink City" (Jodhpur is "Blue", Jaisalmer "Golden") because it was painted pink sometime during the early 19th century for an important somebody's visit. The old city is still largely pink. Mother Teresa operated from here. Any other questions?

it seems every city in India has a large stone fort on a hill that serves as one of their major attractions. the apathy of "another city, another fort" syndrome had not yet set in as prior to jaipur we had not done any "sightseeing." Note: Path is much steeper than appears in photo

along the path up to the fort, fields and fields of hand-formed biofuel cartridges dried in the sun.

these tall ramparts ran almost around the entire valley, a huge undertaking stretching for several hundred kilometres.

more of the same

the fort was huge, as armies approached all the inhabitants from the city would climb up to the fort and wait out sieges lasting for months or years. there was space for crops, and a well designed water collection/distribution system. The fort remained untaken until somebody managed to poison the reservoir. This is the smaller one used by the inner "fort within a fort" where the maharaj and his nine wives would be protected.

a neighboring hill housing one of india's many proud nazi war criminals in exile

tile this infinitely and youll have some idea of the typical urban sprawl/slum spew on the sub-continent

this angry little man had a real bone to pick with his god(s). he stood for an hour or so shouting at this small shrine, apparently from a thick script he had prepared. he took a break to shout at us for awhile.

these signs were outside most of the city "sites." i think the director crew should have thought of themselves before "allows to fall into decay" was made a punishable crime. i personally would opt for the five thousand rupees, a choice unavailable to most of the indig. population. (six months in jail vs. $120 USD)

Each princely state contains Cenotaphs commemorating and possibly housing the ashes of former maharajas, maharanis, and other esteemed nobles. Jaipur's were relatively mediocre compared to those of Udaipur or even Jaisalmer.

detail

predating the ghar (fort) on top of the hill, is the amber fort about 10K to the north

they always do a passing job at maintaining the gardens in these places, but they can not compare to what they must have been during their time.

there are always more native tourists to be found then euros, and post sept. 11th not many of the white skins have been travelling

mirrored chambers such as this were typically the harems wherein Maharaj got his game on

ganesha, the elephant headed god, is one of the most popular and auspicious of gods. along with the swastikas, can be found adorning every shop, and many vehicles. the swastika, besides being a popular representation of Solar power, in Hinduism (and to others) reflects the geometrical/astrological/arithmetic arrangement of the cosmos, the flow of it's energies, and order of things. Thus representative manifestations of it signify action, and ostensibly success.

flowers are a common offering at the millions of small shrines to be found. this monkey judged their worthiness based on how tasty they were, discarding those he deemed unworthy.