A uniformed Pakistani honor guard fiercely rushes the Indian border, throwing wide the gate separating the two while on the other side a soldier in Indian uniform does the same.

Though the prospects of war diminish, the arrival and departure of the sun each day accompany another melodramatic spectacle at the sole land crossing between Pakistan and India. Part solemn tradition and display of spirit, part posturing bluster and choreographed exercise in absurdity. The ceremonies accompanying the raising and lowering of the national flags, or as they prefer "border displays" are high energy, captivating and entertaining performances. This intensity is not without intent, however. The visual spectacle of the largest men the country has to offer engaging in precise flourishes, aggressive advances, and Rockette-shaming high kicks are telling expressions into the nature of their intra-national relations. Conflict that at its core involves several very real and legitimate matters between the nations. Differences arguably on a resolvable scale, they have little to do with the intense fervor shared by both sides for perpetuating the contempt. One can sense here the unseen hand of Bollywood at work, as this highly precise exercise did not spontaneously develop overnight nor did it occur without some collaboration. The participants bedecked in the most splendorous of martial costume, the proceeding ceremony playing out with a structure of rising conflict and resounding climax typical of formula dramatic narrative.

Long before things starts a collection of one hundred or so Pakistani nationalists offer screaming Pakistani slogans and "ALLAH-U-AKBAR!"

The honor guard lineup in opposing balustrades in view of one another. Regrouping in parade formation beneath the grandstand, they appear prepared to mount a combined assault on the border.

The Yeoman sounds out martial calls, and one soldier from each side rushes the gate, throwing it violently open, passion and intensity characterizing every movement.

Charging directly towards each other, they stop just short and offer a brief handshake before assuming a position of protection on either side.

Another guard high-kicks his way, full velocity toward the gate, stopping short to exercise a protracted series of spins, kicks, and chest-puffs. Directing his attention towards the flag, he approaches it in simultaneous coordination with his green coated doppelganger to the east.

Resounding cheers are offered from both sides following the completion of each phase, most audibly the Pakistanis at the western end. One by one and in pairs the guardsmen rush the gate, take their places, buglists sounding broken and discordant anthems while the flags are slowly lowered.

The attitude of mutual contempt underscoring the entire spectacle is certainly entertaining. The precise coordination apparent to the show entirely belies this, more actors then soldiers this crew must meet for weekly rehearsals.

One can only imagine the ongoing game of one-upsmanship, a pastime enjoyed by both sides for the past 50 years, that led to this arrangement. At some point collaboration took effect, as the mirrored reciprocity of movement and timing did not come without considerable time spent blocking it out and regular rehearsal.

Will there be war, will the show go on, or is there any distinction between the two?

the gates

the crowd. the pakistani side was far more spirited and vocal then the indian. for several years the Indian's dominated the border show with their concrete grandstand, the Pakistani's only completed last August.

the ceremony begins from this balustrade...father Jinnah smirking down.

...down they march...

...assuming parade formation...

...rushing the gates...

...only to stop. whats going on?

missed the perfunctory handshake between these two that serves as the only direct interaction between the two sides

this guy put on quite a show of kicks spins and chest-puffing

this was one of the lower kicks

the two flagpoles located between the two gates

these two busied themselves with their national ropes

oh the spectacle

the ropes were worked with great ceremony while honor guards stood watch

the indian uniforms lose the fashion award. whats with those boot cosies?

Red and Black people, that's all you need. (A touch of white makes for martial perfection)

the ropes are crossed...

...and dramatically tossed...

the bugling was the least polished part of the performance

the flags finally come down

gates are slammed shut. oh shit, we're still in pakistan! had i not (nearly) broken my leg saving adams sorry life the previous night we would have surely run for it

this guy was one of the real soldiers at the border

after the show both audiences crowd a walkway along the border just four feet apart, instead of hurling hostilities they exchange few looks besides curious glances. their previous fervor evaporated once almost face to face

we were introduced to this "very strong man" who seemed to lead the pakistani cheers. admittedly, he was spirited and loud.

pre-show jitters